When Ubiquitous Chip was bought over by the Metropolitan Pub Company (part of Greene King) in 2022, many predicted its demise. They’ve been proven wrong. A recent £1.2m restoration stays true to the old character of a unique building, with subtle and tasteful changes to the décor and artwork. And yes, menus have been modernised and streamlined but, at its core, Glasgow’s most storied restaurant still offers seasonal produce from across Scotland in a unique setting. 

Opened by Ronnie Clydesdale in 1971, The Chip ushered in a reinvention of Ashton Lane and Scottish cuisine itself. Today, dishes such as cranachan (around since the start) have not so much been shown the door as reimagined, while house-made haggis is still on the brasserie menu. Diners will be happy that the main courtyard restaurant feels almost exactly as it did before, and Alasdair Gray’s murals also haven’t gone anywhere. Neither have the little touches and attentive service that make a place special, like toasted pinhead oatmeal on soda bread, or waiting staff remembering whether you’re drinking still or sparkling as they top you up. 

You can still expect dependable dishes like Shetland cod, but it’s now served with an umami-rich oyster emulsion and squid-ink-black crackers. Likewise, venison is plated with the expected beetroot, but also cacao and peanut, while violet artichokes with Spenwood cheese and rich barigoule dressing is a triumph. A dark-chocolate pavé with sweet woodruff cream and cherry sorbet is also enjoyable. Sommelier selections are on point too, with wine pairings that rarely disappoint, and the cocktail menu has also had a reboot. But ultimately, an afternoon or evening at The Chip isn’t really about food or drink, it’s the atmosphere and ambience that keep us coming back. And that, thankfully, is the same as it’s always been. 

Ubiquitous Chip, 12 Ashton Lane, Glasgow; average price £45 for two restaurant courses.