Autumn swept changes through the Aizle group, Stuart Ralston’s clutch of Edinburgh restaurants. Aizle, the initial flagship site, closed, leaving Michelin-starred Lyla, Bib Gourmand casual diners Noto and Tipo, plus a new project. We didn’t have long to wait to meet the new addition. After a quick revamp of the ex-Fhior premises by Scarinish Studio, Vinette opened in October; cocktail bar Vivien, in her basement, joined the party in November (just in time for pre-Christmas drinks). 

Vinette has a Parisian-ish approach which translates to bistro-style dishes, old world wines (under the careful eye of group sommelier Stuart Skea), and a little French crushed-linen flair in the décor. The cocktail list is strong: a crisp Vinette Martini pairs beautifully with snacks of cream cheese and smoked trout roe with freshly fried crisps, or fat anchovy and olive gildas. A scallop starter is resplendent with nuggets of octopus in a glistening nduja sauce, and a bouncy crumpet arrives smothered in melted Baron Bigod cheese with truffle and apple.

There’s a fine-looking burger with bacon jam on the entrée menu and a few more French offerings: pork with cider, chicken roulade and quiche. Barbecued monkfish tail just wins the vote, and it’s glorious: juicy fish served with a brown shrimp bisque, topped with shaved fennel and purslane. With a side of fries and charred broccoli with anchovy, this is very good eating indeed. Vinette joins Tipo and Noto as a cracking place for a slightly splashy meal that’s miles from second-mortgage Lyla. Enchanté Vinette. 

Vinette, 36 Broughton Street, Edinburgh; average price £30 for two-course dinner.