WanderList: Athens and Hydra
Can’t agree with the other half on holiday plans? Jo Laidlaw finds the best of both worlds on a trip combining the city buzz of Athens with island calm on Hydra

There’s nothing new about the two-centre holiday. But when one half of a couple wants a city break while the other craves a bit of peace and quiet, and you’re not over-endowed with annual leave between you, flying to Athens with a side trip to Hydra ticks all the boxes without adding anything like two travel days.
Start in Athens, where naturally the city’s antiquities are the jewel in a pretty shiny crown. The Acropolis is one of the world’s wonders; it’s not hype to say it feels like a magical place where the veil between today’s world and the ancient one is very thin. Despite being perpetually rammed with tourists (go early, there’s a hill to climb and the heat is fierce), you’ll still find a quiet corner where it’s easy to believe you’re about to take part in an ancient temple rite to the glory of Athena, the ancient goddess who gave the city her name.
The Greek capital’s museums are world-class too: The Acropolis Museum gives context to the site (and includes a few highly enjoyable jabs at that arch looter Lord Elgin), while the National Archaeological Museum is crammed with treasures such as Agamemnon’s death mask and the Thera Room, filled with household items perfectly preserved by a volcanic eruption around 1600BC that are almost unbearably poignant in their familiarity.

But Athens is also a vibrant, living city. Despite the noise and traffic, a young population live outside, starting their days with leisurely iced coffees, moving onto (excellent) local wine and taking every opportunity to sample, at any time, what might be the world’s greatest street food. When it all gets too much (and it will), join them and head to the Athens Riviera for pretty beaches, all accessible by tram.
For proper chill time, though, Hydra awaits. A mere hour and a half away by ferry, it’s a tiny island with no cars or even bikes; the only wheels you’ll see belong to the solitary rubbish truck and the luggage trollies that crowd the quayside as the boats dock. It’s utterly perfect for people-watching, with a well-heeled Euro crowd spilling off daddy’s yacht to eat fresh fish and spend in the super expensive ‘I saw you coming’ shops that line the port.
Hydra cannot be described as rustic in any true sense of the word (including prices: it is spenny), but it has charm and calm. Take a water taxi to one of the beach bars that dot the coast or walk over to the cliffs beside Sunset Bar for a DIY day. As the name suggests, that’s also the best place to watch the glorious sunset. Take a bottle of wine with you and don’t forget to offer a libation to the ancient gods, who are always watching.