Before diving into this article, I feel it’s only fair to disclaim that Heidelberg means more to me than most other places I’ve visited and will ever visit in the future. I spent five fond childhood years living in the city, playing in the plentiful playgrounds and mixing with many international families who have also called it home. All bias aside, I do believe it’s one of the most charming spots in Germany to visit as a tourist, especially as part of a wider tour around the country.

Located in southwest Germany, around an hour’s train journey from Frankfurt, this historic city sprawls along both sides of the Neckar River and features one of Germany’s most picturesque Old Towns and prestigious universities. Its old arched bridge and magnificent castle ruins dating back to 1214 are key landmarks in a postcard-perfect skyline, which you can admire from its mostly pedestrianised cobbled streets. 

Set within a valley, Heidelberg in its entirety can be observed best from peaks located on either side of the river. On the south side, trek up to the castle for a splendid view over the city (or take the funicular railway from just behind Karlsplatz). A few hundred metres further up on the funicular takes you to the Königstuhl (King’s Seat) which boasts even more magnificent vistas. On the river’s other side, the Philosopher’s Way offers a pleasant hike through the bougie houses in Neuenheim and atmospheric woodland, before depositing you down by the old bridge. 

Heidelberg’s food offerings, like most cosmopolitan cities, come from its international communities. Middle Eastern eateries are common and delicious; Mahmoud’s on Merianstrasse is my favourite, especially the mixed platter with tabbouleh, roasted vegetables, falafel, hummus and baba ganoush. Italian-run gelato joints are commonplace on every street and while you’ll struggle to stumble across a bad one, Eis Roma on Fischmarkt has successfully endured. From there, wander along Untere Strasse for a selection of boutiques and a lovely little record shop (Musikzimmer) before stopping in at the nearest bar for a pilsner or two (in the summer, you won’t be able to move for outdoor seating).

While summer in Heidelberg is my favourite time (there’s a weekly firework display over the river that brings in quite a crowd), impressive Christmas markets and regular festivals such as Heidelberger Herbst (this area’s answer to Oktoberfest) and a carnival called Fasching add liveliness to every season. A short tram ride to nearby Rohrbach boasts acres of vineyards that produce delicious local wine while a 40-minute bus trip gets you to the quaint town of Schwetzingen, home to a breathtaking eponymous palace and gardens that could give Versailles a run for its money.

Visit the official Heidelberg site.