The List

WanderList: McLaren Vale

One of the world’s best wine-producing regions is just a hop, skip and jump away from vibrant Adelaide. Jo Laidlaw goes tasting

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WanderList: McLaren Vale

See any Melbourne or Sydney-based comedian at Adelaide’s Fringe and you’ll hear plenty of jokes about the city itself: too wee, too dull, and what’s with the extra half hour on the time difference?! (I mean, that one’s fair enough). But there’s so much that’s endearing about Adelaide. It’s home to 1.3 million people (hardly a village, lads) and packed with outdoor community pools, cracking city beaches, a vibrant food scene, beautiful parks, world-class galleries and a fantastic year-round festival programme, including the aforementioned Adelaide Fringe and the equally stellar Adelaide Festival. Heck, it’s even home to Coopers Brewery (mine’s a pale ale). 

But one of the biggest draws is the wine, with the poetic list of Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills and, my fave, McLaren Vale, all within easy reach. In fact, the Vale is just a 40-minute drive from the centre of Adelaide and well-served by trains, regular buses and tours. 

Here’s the science bit. McLaren Vale is one of the world’s most geologically complex wine regions. That means a lot of scenery for your eyes: greenery abounds thanks to a gentler climate that’s cooled by sea breezes blowing in from beaches so picture-perfect you’ll swear you’ve blundered into an AI simulation. That’s gold in your glass right there, because it makes for a huge variety of wines and wineries. Yet there’s a sense of familiarity too, which is no surprise when you learn these vineyards were originally planted by European, often Italian, immigrants using ‘old country’ stock like shiraz, cab sav and grenache. Almost every winery is geared up for tourists and tasting. There are tiny, rustic spots such as Samuel’s Gorge, where charming winemaker Justin McNamee may decide to spontaneously show you what hand-pressing looks like, or share his stunning sparkling shiraz (fizzy red? Oh yeah, that’s a thing).

Altogether glossier are brands such as d’Arenberg, home of a Rubik’s Cube-like structure filled with art, cheeky trompe-l’oeil pieces and a huge collection of Dalí sculptures, or Yangarra Estate, a futuristic space with acres of grenache vines. Most places offer some form of sustenance, although Dandelion Vineyards take it to another level: their Wonder Room tasting restaurant matches every sip to a delicious, specially created bite as well as hosting gorgeous picnic afternoons (bottle, basket, blanket, bliss).

Or head to Oliver’s Taranga, home to Corrina Wright who spearheaded the low-intervention movement in the area. Her fiano is fresh, aromatic and crisp, and the home-pressed olive oil is also worth holding space in your case for. Finish up at The Salopian Inn, where they’ve been feeding hungry travellers for over 170 years before heading back to the city for a little lie down.

For info on Adelaide’s festivals and the city’s best food and drink spots, check out The List’s Adelaide Summer Festivals coverage

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