WanderList: Seville
Fleeing the cold, grey British winter, Megan Merino jets off to Seville for a break that has it all (including actual sunshine)
There are a few key things I’m looking for in a winter getaway: a vitamin D boost, flights of a cheap and short nature and, of course, lots of culture. With its budget airline travel routes, temperature highs of 25 degrees, abundance of tapas bars, brightly coloured hand-painted tiles and a faint clip-clop of flamenco dancers wherever you turn, the Andalusian capital of Seville firmly ticks all boxes.
Start with a quick journey from the airport into town (shuttle buses or taxis are both reasonably priced). Once you’ve arrived, the city is easily navigated by foot. Begin with a stroll along Jardines De Murillo, a gorgeous stretch of gardens backing onto the Alcázar Palace (we’ll get to that later). Carry on until you hit the University Of Seville campus then head across the road to Plaza De España, a semi-circular building fusing Moorish tiling with baroque and renaissance architecture, originally built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition.
Head back along the river and you’ll quickly arrive in the Casco Antiguo area where, after seeing the towering gothic Seville Cathedral and its impressive bell tower (also in a Moorish style), grab a bite at Bar Casa Morales for some authentic tapas. If you’re still peckish, hop next door to the fish-forward Freiduría La Isla for some calamari and other sea-dwelling delights. After some more exploring, Las Teresas is another great watering hole option nearby, nestled into some very narrow streets with sweet local boutiques and tablaos (where flamenco is traditionally danced). Then see out the evening with a local vermouth, wine and/or Cruzcampo (all of which cost around €2.50).
Enjoy a restful night’s sleep, then it’s Real Alcázar time. When it comes to visiting this historic royal palace, tickets must be purchased well in advance. The silver lining? Once inside, you can stay as long as you like. As you wander around the seemingly endless courtyards and gardens, stop to read a book (or do as I did and listen to the entirety of Rosalía’s recent Lux album) as there are plenty of benches from which to take in your vivid surroundings.
Once you’ve had your fix, grab a city bike and take to Seville’s lovely cycle paths as you head along the Guadalquivir River and across the Triana Bridge to the tile-making district. Old factories with tile signage line small, cobbled streets, alongside shops selling a range of ceramic goodies. Learn their history inside Triana’s Ceramic Centre before heading into Mercado De Triana for lunch. Pull up a chair at a vendor of your choice and then all that’s left to do is sink into the buzz of market dining.
Visit Seville’s official tourist site.