Here’s a thing about Leith. Do you love it for being old, all those hodge-podge historic buildings crowding towards the docksides, bumpy cobbled streets and memories of comings and goings? Or do you love it for its youthful energy, a place where there are always new ideas and ventures to discover, where worlds mix and minds are open?

The contrast is encapsulated in one of those elements that has become to define Leith and Newhaven over the last few decades: their food and drink scene. There’s never not something new in Leith. Talk of the town for much of 2026 has been Brown’s of Leith, the old engineering workshop on The Shore that has been converted into airy, flexible venue where five different operators, Haze, Civerinos, ShrimpWreck, Asu and Woven Whisky, serve up snacks, drinks and meals from early to late. Other notable arrivals in the last year or so include Dogstar, where chef James Murray shows off some compelling combinations of Scottish ingredients, Nami, an accessible Asian-inspired restaurant from the sisters behind Mimi’s Bakehouse, and Norah beside Newhaven harbour, where Irish-born chef Claire Hanrahan offers classy brunches and lunches. Meanwhile there are fresh arrivals on the pub scene, with Bellfield Brewery taking over Nobles, Diggers of Leith, an offshoot of the Gorgie original, setting up just around the corner, and The Keelson on The Shore from the Dogstar crew. And they keep on coming, with new French wine bar and bistro Chez Bernard, also on The Shore, opening its doors in August.

Yet however compelling it is to discover the latest new thing, the district is dotted with venues that immediately inspire a sense of fondness and nostalgia, places you really want to get back to for that comforting wrap of fine hospitality. Places like Restaurant Martin Wishart, new on the block itself 25 years ago, but now Scotland’s longest-held Michelin star. The Shore Bar & Restaurant, quite the contrast to Brown’s next door, but full of venerable charm and character. Unprepossessing Café Domenico on Sandport Street is great for a lunchtime focaccia or Italian classics after work, friendly Porto & Fi in Newhaven is the kind of relaxed bistro that always seems a good choice, while lived-in bars such as Roseleaf or Teuchters Landing remind that even if you’re not a local in Leith you can be made to feel like one.

Top tip: your day (or evening) trip to Leith doesn’t need to be restricted to just one venue. Try a few. Maybe the best bits of Leith are not the old or the new but they way they mix together. Taste it for yourself.

Leith and Newhaven are just a short hop from the city centre by bus, walk or VOI bike. Visit The City of Edinburgh Council website for details of these. For further inspiration for your next trip to Leith and Newhaven, visit the Forever Edinburgh Website.