From the folks behind Topolabamba and Chaakoo, Zhima has transformed the ornate Glasgow city-centre spot vacated by Prezzo. There is mystery here, disorientation even, as dark wood blends with mirrors and large decorative screens, partially obscuring segregated dining sections across the two floors. And there is gold too, enough to conjure Midas: sit on gold chairs, touch gold cutlery, look at displays of gold artworks and masks. 

Staff in black suits swish between tables and a blingy (gold) bar that dishes out satisfying cocktails. The house Margarita is clever, with spicy Sichuan seasoning and nutty notes from sesame-washed reposado. The on-tap beer, Hong Ba, is made in Glasgow and is a decent stand-in for unavailable Tsingtao. Cantonese and Beijing cuisines are well represented in the familiar sesame toast, sweet and sour dishes and Peking duck. Bolder Sichuan cuisine is here too in kung pao dishes and tender ribs packing a wee punch. The Hunan region is tasted in Qianlong wan ji: rice with minced chicken in spicy(ish) sauce with crispy garlic slices adding lovely pungent crackles. Milder Huaiyang food is also found, with enjoyable lion’s head meatballs ( light pork and chicken balls, fragrant with ginger and fennel, in satay sauce).

Then Japan gets a nod with oyster mushroom tempura: a bit batter-heavy and needing dipping sauce. Mongolia pops up, with moreish wok-fried tender beef in sweet soy sauce. There are hints of Malaysia and of Indonesia, too. It all starts to feel a tad scattershot with crowd-pleasing choices somewhat trumping further delves into China’s fascinating cuisines.

Zhima, 35 St Vincent Place, Glasgow; average cost £34 for starter, main and side.