A picture-perfect medieval old centre and the birthplace of iconic Italian dishes, Bologna isn’t exactly under the radar. Yet, it still feels far from the Disneyland-esque tourist hubs of nearby Florence (a 45-minute train ride away) and Venice (an hour and a half on the train). If, like me, you’re in Italy for the food, Bologna is an essential stop.

From the airport, it’s a cramped but quick journey on the new Marconi Express, a two-cabin monorail that sees you at Bologna Centrale station in seven minutes. Time-worn pavements lead along Via dell’Indipendenza, the city’s main shopping street where seating from casual tabaccheria cafés and panini shops spills out beneath Bologna’s signature porticoes.

Piazza Maggiore is where folk gather in the evening to sit beneath the rose-hued Palazzo d’Accursio’s clock tower, which opened as a viewing platform in 2022. I chose to climb the 498 rickety wooden stairs to the top of Asinelli Tower instead, one of two ancient towers that have presided over the city since the days of noble families feuding for power.

Half a day can be dedicated to following the Portico di San Luca to the imposing fifth-century monastery atop a forested hill. Over 600 porticoes shade the paved walkway and it’s nice to get a breath of fresh air at this quiet sanctuary, with views over Emilia-Romagna’s farmland.Bolognese sauce was born in Bologna, and the original dish (not the tomato-heavy spag bol dished up outside Italy) is still served in the city’s cosy trattorias. Here, it’s a simple medley of hand-cut tagliatelle and ragù topping (and definitely not served with spaghetti). A few streets from the centre is the more graffitied but still beautiful student quarter, home to Europe’s oldest university. Here, the bars are cheaper and livelier, and Bologna meal staples are served at the iconic Osteria dell’Orsa. 

For something lighter in the early evening, the square by Santo Stefano church is a popular place for aperitvo as golden light hits the piazza (you can visit the peaceful cloisters inside too). I picked up a platter of peppery salami and garlicky mortadella from La Salumeria di Bruno e Franco, and took it to Osteria del Sole, Bologna’s last remaining wine bar where you can bring your own food. Cavernous walls and refectory-style tables have stood the test of time since the 14th century, and so has its signature frizzante wine which is produced by the osteria itself.

Once you’ve had your fill of the city, day trips can take you to the parmesan warehouses and vineyards of Emilia-Romagna or the foodie towns of Modena (for Ferraris and balsamic vinegar) and Parma (for ham and football). In the centre of Italy, surrounded by farmland, Bologna is an ideal food-lovers’ getaway, or as part of a longer, slower journey by train.

Find out more at Bologna Welcome. Read last month's wanderList on Albania.