Opened in early 2021, Sen serves Vietnamese comfort food, primarily from the Nam Din province. Midnight-blue walls and a ceiling glowing with Hoi-Anese lanterns welcome you to the bijou space on West Nicolson Street while the scent of spices that have been sundried and brought back from Vietnam hangs in their air. You can taste the citrus-tang of lemongrass in the salt and pepper squid starter which remains soft and tender on the inside and crispy on the outside.

Soft pork-belly cuts as though it's been cooked for days, let alone hours, in the umami-rich caramelised coconut sauce. Salty, savoury and sweet all vie for attention in every bite. Pho (pronounced 'fuh') is a hearty medley of rich broth, rice noodles and filleted beef, which Sen sources locally from East Lothian farms. A distinctly Vietnamese addition, the pho here comes with the little stick of fried bread ubiquitous in the outlets of Hanoi, plus plenty of fresh mint, Thai basil and coriander to add to your liking.

Perhaps the star of the show is the Duck Lantern Curry, where confit duck leg shows the French influence in Vietnamese cuisine and wheels of lotus root are a nod to the restaurant's name (Sen meaning lotus). Chilli pulses pleasantly at the back of your throat and an aniseed sweetness lingers after a few bites.

An effort has been put into plant-based dining too with a dedicated menu for vegans and vegetarians just as extensive as its carnivorous counterpart. Summer rolls served with avocado, green papaya salad that you'd see at any of Hoi-An's food carts, and stir-fry vegetable pho don't feel like a compromise on flavour. Southeast Asia isn't famous for its desserts, but traditional Vietnamese drip coffee is on offer: just don't expect to sleep after. Digesting with the slow sip of a lotus tea is the more sedate option.

41 West Nicolson Street, Edinburgh, senrestaurant.co.uk