Opening in West Coates in March, this is the second branch of Japanese restaurant Miju (the original is in Dalry Road). Despite being part of a boutique hotel, it feels nothing like a typical hotel bar: stepping behind traditional noren curtains takes you into a world of light wood and ink black. Shelves of sake bottles and plum wine display kanji script while the small bar is stocked with a variety of Japanese whiskies, gins and sake, as tinkling spa-like music inspires conversation at murmur level. Reading the menu in a dim light is challenging, but there’s no denying the atmosphere. 

The focus is mainly sushi; bagging a seat at the bar means watching skilled hands prepare each roll fresh in front of you. It’s a pleasant surprise to find individual nigiri plates, allowing you to curate your own selection. Small-plate starters hold no huge surprises, and include takoyaki (octopus balls), edamame and chicken karage. Gyoza are clearly handmade and fried on the spot for a comforting ease into more adventurous dishes, while eel skewers come glazed with a sweet, sticky sauce, and yakitori-style skewers are perfect with a cold Asahi or Sapporo. 

On presenting your picture-perfect selection of sushi, staff tell you the correct order to eat each element (start with sashimi that tastes of fresh water). Of course, there are items for Western tastes: rainbow rolls layered with salmon and tuna, dragon rolls with avocado and prawn tempura, and a particularly delicious spider roll with crispy soft-shell crab, though the California roll with grilled cheese feels a little too fusion for such distinctly Japanese surroundings. Miju is one of the classier Japanese restaurants in Edinburgh, with everything from décor to eating directions feeling carefully considered. There’s no doubt this is a bit of stylish diversity for the Haymarket/Roseburn dining scene.

Miju, 6 Hampton Terrace, Edinburgh; average price for starter and classic sushi selection £32.