Blink and you’ll miss Argile restaurant on the edge of Marchmont. Seating a maximum of eight people, it’s the epitome of an intimate dining experience. And ‘experience’ is the word; the dining bar wraps around a gleaming chrome kitchen with a surprising amount of sparkle.

The soundtrack to your meal is the bubble and hiss of pots and pans as dishes are prepared in front of you, along with some friendly chatter about ingredient sourcing (the duck is from Strathaven, the mussels from St Monans). Plus, there’s a bit of storytelling between courses from chef Jack Montgomery, formerly of The Peat Inn over in Fife. A seasonal tasting menu is the only option, and due to the venue’s intimate nature, most dietary requirements can’t be catered for. Dishes are accompanied by the curated wine list which is all Old World, with a particular penchant for France (zesty Languedoc picpouls and grenache from the Southern Rhone).

The menu has evolved since Argile opened last summer and experimentation has led to a selection of diners’ favourites. A bite-sized mimolette gougère is a delightful start, and egg yolk jam and salty little beads of trout roe atop a crisp rosti are another mouthful of joy. Mussels in smoked butter steal the show with a curious spice from black lime that lingers long after the last bite. 

While spelt porridge is earthy and delicious, the presentation doesn’t do it justice (and a ‘yeast reduction’ never sounds particularly appetising on a menu). Ending with the childhood nostalgia of rhubarb and custard in a pimped-up variation is a triumph. Overall, it feels like the kind of place those in the know will wax lyrical about. 

Argile, 21 Argyle Place, Edinburgh