^{Nicola Benedetti}

August festivals in Edinburgh are like crisps; one just isn’t enough. As summer reaches its peak, us greedy capital-dwellers are spoilt for cultural choice, with a smorgasbord of art, food, books, music and theatre festivals all brimming with events to choose from. And while we know a true Edinburgher is supposed to scowl, grumble about road diversions and scoff at the presence of a certain upturned purple cow loitering around George Square, the truth behind the omertà is that in fact we can’t get enough of it (but shhhhh, don’t tell, or our reputation will be spoiled).

Although technically they take place in July, the Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival (14–23 July) and the Edinburgh Food Festival (21–30 July) help herald the start of festival time. The jazz festival spans around 130 concerts and prides itself on taking in the whole spectrum of the genre, from ragtime to modern jazz, Chicago blues and swing. Last year, international musicians such as Francesco Zampini and trio De Beren Gieren were programmed alongside Scottish talents Anoushka Nanguy and Martin Kershaw. The Food Festival acts as a laid-back prelude to Assembly’s Fringe programme in its sylvan George Square Gardens setting, with an impressive range of food stalls and pop-up bars along with events for kids and adults.  

The Edinburgh International Festival (4–27 August) is the original festival that started it all off, back in 1947 when, following the tragedy of the Second World War, the idea was born to reunite the world through art. Astonishingly however, in 75 years there has never been a woman or a Scottish person as festival director: until now. Last year, world-renowned violinist Nicola Benedetti was announced as the new director, and has already stated that her vision includes providing the ‘greatest level of art to the broadest possible audience’ and making sure the festival is relatable to people from all walks of life. While we wait on tenterhooks for the first lineup announcements, you can get stuck in to last autumn’s At Home programme online. 

^Platform

The largest city-wide festival, Edinburgh Festival Fringe (4–28 August), starts on the same day and, after bouncing back with a bang last year, is sure to be bursting with shows in every genre, from headline stand-ups to underground surreal comics, late-night contemporary dance pieces, queer cabarets and new playwriting. The Fringe took flak last year for the rising costs for artists coming to perform, not least with regard to accommodation, and has responded by providing regular updates on their talks with the Scottish Government and Edinburgh Council over legislation on short-term lets. The first batch of shows will be revealed on 16 February so keep an eye on their website. 

The Free Festival (3–27 August) was set up in 2004 to combat the high overheads and ticket prices to performers and punters alike. Now running at over 30 venues and mainly known for its comedy, it’s a place where you can take a genuine punt late at night (or on a lazy afternoon) and you just might find a gem. Last year, the Free Festival also provided 12 BSL-signed performances every day, and mental health support sessions for performers across the Fringe and Free Festival, setting gold standards for how festivals should be run. 

If you’d rather pick from an actual smorgasbord than a metaphorical one, the Foodies Festival (4–6 August) is here for you. Sprawling across Inverleith Park and taking in music, baking demonstrations, kids cookery and street food, there’s a groaning quantity of tents and stages to choose from. 

^{Ukrainian Orchestra}

For lovers of literature, the annual Edinburgh International Book Festival (12–28 August) returns for its third year in its current home at Edinburgh College of Art. With a relaxed vibe, it’s always a great place to catch a breather and browse the festival bookshop, as well as grabbing tickets to hear from your favourite authors. Previous lineups have included former Children’s Laureate Malorie Blackman and the late, brilliant Hilary Mantel, though this year’s programme is still to be announced. 

Even if you never set foot on the castle battlements in August, you can’t fail to be aware of the famous Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (4–26 August), with its fireworks displays as the sun goes down every festival night. A mixture of military pageant, piping and drumming, and contemporary music, with invited military musicians from all over the world, it’s a spectacle that has taken on iconic status. This year’s show is titled Stories and promises a ‘twist on tradition’.

Last but not least, it’s the 19th year of Edinburgh Art Festival (late July–late August), also celebrating a new director in Kim McAleese, who comes with an impressive background as curator, lecturer and arts facilitator. Highlights of the festival announced so far include Platform, the festival’s Early Career Artist Award, create dangerously by Venice-selected artist Alberta Whittle, and the largest exhibition of Grayson Perry’s work to date.

This feature was originally written for the Guide to Scotland's Festivals 2023. Find out more.