Let’s be honest, the main reason anyone schleps up Calton Hill to the restaurant at its top is for an amazing view. Café Calton boasts the best vantage point of any venue in the city: the spires and shambling rooftops of the Old Town are in one direction, while the New Town’s regimented planning can really be appreciated, and you can see Fife and the Forth bridges, even on hazy days. The dramatic glass-box interior does have its downside though, as it gets pretty hot when the sun streams in. 

At Café Calton, the day starts with brunch, switching to Italian-style aperitivo small plates, wine and cocktails late afternoon as Edinburgh’s lights wink and twinkle to life below. Those seated inside enjoy neon-bright spritzes, deliciously bitter Negronis and crisp rosé in a glass. If you choose to enjoy a drink alfresco at the wooden benches and standing tables, you’ll order from a separate hatch and drink from a plastic cup. 

From the evening menu, steak tartare is on the spicy side, balanced by a sweet, toasted brioche. Burrata in olive oil is nicely gooey and the crispy chicken in hot honey sauce delightfully addictive. Fresh and seasonal ingredients mean this can’t be considered cheap eats, but the smoked anchovies are a particularly small portion for the price. In fact, you’ll probably burn more calories climbing up Calton Hill than you’ll eat off the menu, but there’s no doubt this is a cracking spot for a sundowner with a view.

Café Calton, Calton Hill, Edinburgh; average price around £70 for six sharing plates.