Dogstar restaurant review: Playful simplicity
A hub of Scottish delicacies has opened at Edinburgh’s Portland Place
Dogstar’s stellar start back in November could put the teeniest bit of pressure on what feels like a late-to-the-party visit: expect nothing but delight, or take the buzz with a cellarful of salt? Save yourself the worry. This is unequivocally the hottest opening for years. Chef James Murray (ex-Timberyard) is no stranger to technically precise, Michelin-pleasing food. But he’s let loose here, balancing all that experience with playfulness and simplicity. It’s a joy to eat a bowl of pickled radishes, unadorned, clean as wee whistles tootling a promise of spring. Their accompaniment? Ranch dressing made with Lanark Blue cheese. A fever-dream of casual and fine-dining. Audacious.
Sourcing is meticulous and sensible. Mid-Scottish game season, there’s no apology for the lack of lamb, pork or beef. Instead, there’s a whole partridge, skin crisp and savoury, served with earthy celeriac and plum preserve (woodcock also appears on the specials). The menu changes frequently, but you’ll almost always find a couple of bowls of shells, like sea clams unexpectedly paired with rosemary. And if you find the mains carb-light, just order more of the superlative focaccia (which sticks up two coal-blackened fingers to the city’s sourdough obsession).
Of course, great restaurants are more than just food, and Nauticus lads Kyle Jamieson and Michael Lynch make the whole thing go with a swing, out on the floor, making you fall in love not just with their new baby but with the whole idea of eating out again. The dogstar is, apparently, the brightest star in the sky. That tracks.
Dogstar, 17 Portland Place, Edinburgh; average price £45 for starter, main and bread; picture: Nathan Hinze.