Abbeyhill is often heralded as Edinburgh’s latest ‘bohemian’ hood. Indeed, where rough-and-ready takeaways once prevailed, there’s now no shortage of trendy coffee shops, with recent openings pushing the main drag into the consciousness of gourmet diners. 

Starting with those coffee shops then. Art And Vintage arguably serves the best cup of coffee in town, in bowl-sized mugs to boot, but flood damage has currently forced a temporary closure; maybe pop around the corner to Fortitude Coffee where they also take their java very seriously. Red Kite Café showcases a selection of tempting homemade cakes and bakes at the counter and is roomy enough to linger for a few hours with a laptop. For your bougatsa or baklava fix, Think Pastry offers all the best Greek filo favourites in a cosy spot on the corner of Montrose Terrace: feta-forward sandwiches provide something more substantial for lunch.

Should the sun make a rare appearance, afternoon cocktail spots don’t get much better than Herringbone Abbeyhill. These former public conveniences have been transformed into a welcoming light-wood and glass space; the huge outdoor terrace, adorned with stringed lights (plus heaters), is one of the best al fresco spots in the city. For rainy days, The Safari Lounge offers fusion Asian and Central American dishes alongside craft beer and cocktails amid eclectic décor.

Big groups enjoy casual dining at Matto Pizza where Neapolitan-style pies are baked fresh in their oven. But for a real splash-out treat, Montrose has upped the neighbourhood’s game considerably. The team behind Michelin-starred Timberyard have carved out a candle-lit fine-dining space serving a tasting menu of Scotland’s finest produce. Smaller plates in the wine bar offer a cheaper, though no less polished, alternative.