Stepping through the familiar porticoes that marked the entrance of Mexican stalwart Pancho Villas for 30-odd years, it’s a surprise to find Scandi-chic lightwood chairs and muted greens and greys in its new incarnation. A casual set-up in the bar area at The Black Grape has a long, high-stooled table for those popping in for a glass, and a mezzanine dining area reserved for those indulging in the small-plates menu.

The unpretentious motto here promises ‘food, wine and good times’. The ‘wine’ it certainly delivers, with an extensive choice of rich reds and crisp whites. For aperitivo, it’s the deliciously lip-pursing ‘sour grapes’ or a classy negroni. The margarita nod to Pancho Villas has disappeared from the menu since opening, perhaps demonstrating that in just a few short months, The Black Grape has ripened into its skin.

The ‘food’ promise is delivered via small plates designed to share, featuring a medley of fresh seafood (possibly thanks to founder Murray Ainslie’s experience at The White Horse Oyster Bar nearby) and Scottish produce. Yakitori chicken skewers are pleasingly sticky with spring onion just the right side of charred. Nduja arancini have a hit of spice and soak up a bold pinot noir nicely.

But it’s the venison haunch that steals the show, rose-pink at its core and bejewelled with plump brambles. A tower of crisp potatoes somewhat overshadows dressed crab, but it’s a refreshing addition to an array of iron and salt-heavy dishes. ‘Good times’ are up to you, but tasty small plates, great cocktails, and a laid-back interior certainly provide the foundations. 

240 Canongate, Edinburgh, theblackgrape.co.uk