The Keelson bar review: Good food, good pub
Situated on Leith’s shore, this bar-cum-restaurant is a cut above pub grub
Is it a pub? Is it a restaurant? Brought to you by the folk behind Dogstar and Nauticus, The Keelson already feels kind of like a supergroup of Leith hospitality. Chicken is the big deal, served as a half or whole rotisserie bird, tender and bursting with flavour. Peppery new potatoes doused in gravy are worth writing home about too. It’s the Sunday roast of dreams, served every day of the week; simple, warming and delicious, without a gloopy sauce in sight. Chicken aside, there are a few seafood options (we’re at The Shore after all): fried baby squid is soft, crisp and seasoned lightly, and there’s a seitan option for veggies or anyone averse to poultry. But to be honest, if you’re not a fan of chicken, you’re probably in the wrong place.
There’s a bar space for walk-in drinks and snacks (you won’t be disappointed with the cocktails: the signature Negroni is particularly herby and it’s hard to stop at just one) plus a separate dining area with booths and dim lighting. The décor is traditional classy pub, with minimal beer paraphernalia and sepia photos on the walls. Complaints about noise levels in the bar section have been swiftly addressed with some subtle soundproofing, showing the team listen to customer feedback. The Keelson isn’t about pub grub: it’s about good food in a pub setting. Leith’s hospitality supergroup has turned out a hit, for sure.
The Keelson, 58 Shore, Edinburgh; £32 for half a chicken, potatoes and gravy for two.