Tipo is somewhat hidden, up a flight of stairs on Hanover Street. But step inside and you’re met by a honey-hued lightwood interior, with big sash windows letting the sunlight stream in. Make the most of this elevated spot by bagging a window table; a great opportunity to people-watch over a glass or two of light and crisp soave. It’s the latest venture from Stuart Ralston, chef-patron of Aizle and Noto, and combines the smart-casual feel of a small plates place with quality Italian cooking.

Alongside those small dishes, there’s pasta made in-house plus main-sized meals, so you can follow the trend of tapas-style eating or buck it for a filling bowl of strozzapreti. Duck liver parfait is as smooth as silk and zeppole (puffed dough balls), with a snowdrift rather than a dusting of castelmagno cheese, embraces the rusticana of southern Italy: it’s a delicious wine snack. Salumi plates show off a fine selection of hand-cured meats and the chefs at Tipo plan to work with the supplier to come up with their own cured meat creations in future. 

For something more substantial, pappardelle with crab is creamy, cut with a welcome chilli kick and a lingering sweetness, while strozzapreti with sausage ragù is a delightful detour from British-Italian cream and/or tomato sauces, with its green, basil base. If you’re looking for an Italian with chequered tablecloths and candles in bottles, this is not the place: it’s a sleek spot where independent winemakers are celebrated and each dish is carefully crafted. 

Tipo, 110 Hanover Street, Edinburgh