WanderList: Bergerac
For many, Bergerac will conjure images of a long-nosed writer and feathered hats. But while it celebrates the legacy of Cyrano De Bergerac with two statues and a mural, there’s so much more to this small medieval destination.
In the heart of France’s south-west wine region, Bergerac prides itself on its full-bodied reds and dry whites. After a £15 direct flight from Edinburgh, make a beeline for Quai Cyrano which houses both the tourist office and the Maison Des Vins, a bar offering free tastings of local wines. We eventually opt for a bottle of Monbazillac from a nearby vineyard to enjoy on the sunny balcony overlooking the Dordogne.
Every alley and side street in Bergerac is chock-full of historical charm, the half-timbered houses and masonry seemingly unchanged for centuries. Between quaint ice-cream parlours and independent clothing and gift stores, you can easily spend a full day shopping in the city centre. But for those wanting a little more culture from their holiday, Bergerac has you covered. Start with a visit to the City Museum for a rundown of Bergerac’s tumultuous past. Follow this up with the adjacent Costi Museum where you can admire over 60 works by 20th-century sculptor Constantin Papachristopoulos; or try the Tobacco Museum, the only one of its kind in Europe.
Once you’ve had your fill of history, hop on one of the traditional gabarres waiting at the quay. These barges, once used to ferry goods along the Dordogne, now provide river tours. Less crowded these adays, the river is resplendent with wildlife; geese, herons, kites and kingfishers all call the Dordogne their home and can be spotted by eagle-eyed tourists.
Next it’s time to try the city’s gustatory offerings. Look no further than Michelin-starred L’Imparfait with its cosy atmosphere, impeccable service and decadent dishes such as beef fillet served with foie gras and veal jus, all for a reasonable price (they even offer an under-30s discount). For a slightly more low-key meal, tuck into beautifully tender confit duck at Le Bistro Du Coin.
If you’ve got time to wander outside the city proper, check out Parc De Pombonne, a sprawling parkland filled with pleasant tree-shaded walks and trickling streams. At the centre is Lac De Pombonne, whose impossibly blue waters are sure to take your breath away. Bring a picnic, birdwatch in the dedicated nature area or simply look out over the water and bask in the beauty of Bergerac.
Visit the official Bergerac tourism board site.