WanderList: Donegal
It may be known as The Forgotten County, but a visit to Donegal leaves a lasting impression. Isy Santini ventures into a land of myths, mountains, castles and crustaceans
You don’t have to travel far to feel like you’re at the edge of the world. An hour-long flight and one very scenic drive later, you can find yourself surrounded by emerald greens and deep blues, looking out over the vast Atlantic Ocean. This is Donegal, Ireland’s northmost county. Dungloe, where I base myself, is about as rural as you can get, and upon arrival I’m greeted by an escaped lamb happily munching on the bushes outside my holiday cottage. After a quick visit to the neighbouring farmer and a bit of lamb wrangling, it’s off to explore the local river walk. This enchanting 2km loop is lined with waist-high fairy houses, all painstakingly decorated with so much detail that you half expect a gnome to step out of the front door.
For some true natural beauty, though, head to Glenveagh National Park, where visitors have free rein to roam the park’s majestic landscape, traverse its rushing waterfalls, climb the peaks of the Derryveagh Mountains and look out over the serene Poisoned Glen, which takes its name from the legend of Balor, a one-eyed giant supposedly killed there by his grandson. Those who prefer a less active day out can wander the medieval-inspired Glenveagh Castle and its surrounding gardens, which still bear all the horticultural stylings of the Victorian era. Cap the day off with a cuppa and a cake in the sunny courtyard café.
Heartier fare can be found back in Dungloe at Patrick Johnny Sally’s, a traditional Irish pub where any weary traveller is guaranteed warm hospitality, stunning views over the bay and some very generous charcuterie boards. At any seaside town, though, the maritime delights should be sampled. The Lobster Pot at Burtonport, easily recognised by the giant crustacean sculpture hanging off the front of the building, is the place to go.
On the off chance that nature’s wonders tire you out, Glebe House awaits. A former residence of English painter Derek Hill, it now boasts a collection that includes Hill’s work as well as that of Picasso, Renoir and William Morris. And just a stone’s throw away from the house lies Columbkille Abbey, whose 10th-century ruins cast a lonely and contemplative mood over the surrounding hills. Wander through the toppled stonework and you’re likely to find gifts to the eponymous saint, still diligently offered by modern-day worshippers.
But is any summer holiday truly complete without a day at the beach? You don’t have to lug your swimsuit all the way to Greece or Spain for some fun in the sun. Maghery Beach is one of Donegal’s best kept secrets, brimming with miraculously warm rock pools and long stretches of soft white sand. Just watch out for the crabs.