Akureyri in north Iceland sits on the quiet Eyjafjörður fjord, sheltered by snow-dusted mountains. The 35-minute flight from Reykjavík across the country’s untamed landscape feels like a sightseeing experience in itself. Five kilometres out of Akureyri, the Hlíðarfjall resort is Iceland’s prime skiing area, with thick snow, alpine downhills and long-distance cross-country routes. Up here, incredible views over the shambling town and glass-like fjord might distract you from the piste. Tour companies around Akureyri also offer heli-skiing experiences that see you dropped at the top of mountains by helicopter for guided runs along snowy sea cliffs and down the side of isolated mountains. A confession: after childhood trips to Edinburgh’s Hillend dry slope resulted in carpet burns, skiing is not my bag. Luckily, there are plenty of alternative activities around Akureyri while everyone else hits the slopes.

The main street houses a handful of coffee shops alongside restaurants serving New Nordic cuisine, and a classic Icelandic hot-dog stand (lamb hot dogs with remoulade and onions are kind of a big deal in Iceland). The Akureyrarkirkja, an imposing church designed by the same architect as Reykjavík’s Hallgrimskirkja, presides over the centre. Strolling around town, I admire clapboard wooden houses dating back to the 18th century and enjoy a waterfront walk along the Eyjafjörður. Meandering through the Arctic flora of the hillside botanic gardens is a delight, while a glasshouse coffee shop with its wood-burning stove is a cosy spot for cake.

Day trips from Akureyri take in the geological wonders that bless the landscape of north Iceland. While south Iceland’s Golden Circle route is packed with visitors, the equally awe-inspiring Diamond Circle from Akureyri is less crowded. Horseshoe-shaped Goðafoss Waterfall is the first stop, particularly pretty dusted with snow. Amid the volcanic plains surrounding Lake Myvatn, I pause to unwind in the milky blue Myvatn Baths, a geothermal spa to rival the Blue Lagoon.

Then it’s on to the thundering cascade of Dettifoss (featured in 2012 sci-fi Prometheus’ opening scenes) before stopping in the quaint village of Húsavík, the whale-watching capital of Europe. From Húsavík harbour, boats chug out to Skjálfandi Bay to spot humpbacks, minke and even blue whales frolicking in the water. I confess I’m drawn to Húsavík’s tiny, quirky museum dedicated to Eurovision: The Story Of Fire Saga which was filmed in this picture-perfect town.

Back in Akureyri, as the snow bunnies return from slaloming down hills, darkness descends early and there’s a good chance of spotting the Northern Lights. Akureyri offers a diverting alternative European ski destination to the Alps and Pyrenees, with plenty of activities for non-skiers too.

Find out more at visitakureyri.is/en. Read last month’s Bologna-based WanderLIST column here.